The Big Wild Ride Rides Again?
For 2025. Denali Randonneurs has scheduled an 1,199 km RUSA brevet called the "BWR Meander" following the route of the Big Wild Ride 1200k, which was held in 2011 and 2013. They are offering no event support, but with some suggestions as to sleep locations, etc.
Since I rode BWR'13, now seemed like a good time to share my story. I will finish with some thoughts about riding this route without event support.
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Catherine Shenk rode the inaugural BWR in 2011. I decided to ride it if they held it again, which fortunately they did!
The Big Wild Ride route is a horseshoe starting on the coast in Valdez, topping out at Fairbanks, and finishing in Anchorage.
ANCHORAGE TO WHITTIER
Most riders and staff congregated in Anchorage. From there, it's a 5½-hour drive overland to Valdez, according to Google Maps. But you could also take the Alaska Railroad train to Whittier (2½ hours), and from there the ferry to Valdez (6 hours). Scenic and interesting, one of the highlights of the event. Some of the most stunning scenes of the trip, and the only seascapes and ocean views.
On the train along the cloud-shrouded coast.
Turnagain Arm through rain-splattered window.
The actual ride would be dry except for a few sprinkles the first morning.
This is not typical!
A glacier
The final stretch to Whittier is through a one-way (alternating direction) train and car (alternating vehicle type) tunnel: "at 13,300 feet (4,100 m), the second-longest highway tunnel, and longest combined rail and highway tunnel in North America." (Wikipedia) The tunnel is the only land access to Whittier, the other access being by sea.
Train pulling up in Whittier.
An easy walk to the ferry.
The entire town lives in the building on the left.
After a short picnic of Alaskan dockside delicacies, it was time to board the ferry!
Julie Gazmararian and Carl Anderson in front.
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WHITTIER TO VALDEZ
By now it had become sunny and bright, perfect for sitting on deck, visiting, and soaking up the wonderful views.
Kevin Turinsky, BWR organizer
and Alaska Randonneurs RBA
RAAM Finisher and Randonneuse Kitty Goursolle (#3301)
flanked behind by Kevin and my wife Pat.
I think they are discussing birds.
There was plenty to see in all directions!
A glacier.
A mountain range.
A whale.
An icebergette.
A fishing boat.
We also saw sea otters swimming behind the ferry, and puffins (!).
Pam Wright and Dan Driscoll
All too soon it was time to retrieve our bikes and gear, disembark in Valdez, and roll our bikes and baggage to the hotel.
Bikes and gear below decks.
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VALDEZ TO DELTA JUNCTION
The next day was a chance to relax in Valdez, stretch one's legs, and - if you were smart - get some sleep in the afternoon. (Veterans warned you can get sleep deprived prior to the event if you simply stay awake during the long, long days of an Alaskan summer.)
Pat chatting with Dan and Pam
BWR'11 had departed at 6pm. It seemed like another time might be optimal for sleeping at the sleeping venues during the (short) hours of darkness. So Kevin moved the start to just before midnight, which worked out well, but meant that Kevin had to change arrangements with the roadhouses up the Richardson Highway. One downside of the nighttime start was that we transited Thompson Pass (2,600 ft.) in the dark, and missed whatever views it may have.
Night falls over the ride start.
Dawn heralded by a brief sprinkle.
The route to Delta Junction and then to Fairbanks was on the Richardson Highway, and roughly follows the course of the Trans-Alaska Pipeline. Or vice versa. When the pipeline was being constructed, there were more active restaurants, lodging, and other business, but it's pretty quiet now, hence Kevin arranging the local business support we had.
Our first roadhouse stop - about 75 miles into the ride - was at the historic Tonsina River Lodge, "a rambling, shambling, gravel-covered spread, with weatherbeaten buildings." (Wikipedia)
one of the numerous Alaskan establishments with Russian roots.
In front of the Tonsina River Lodge
They had set up an elaborate buffet of many tasty and filling treats.
Tim Mason (RUSA #1843) on left
The rest of the day to Delta Junction proceeded uneventfully except for a few minutes' delay when staff evaluated a gravel roadwork segment. After the one convenience store on this route - at a junction with the highway to Canada - it was a succession of idiosyncratic but friendly roadhouses.
As evening fell and we left the last of the settlements behind, we kept a keen eye out for moose and grizzlies.
I reached Delta Junction at dusk, close to 11pm, and was one of the early riders to arrive. We'd been slowed by headwinds throughout the day, but still, the start time worked out well for a swath of riders. Overnight was at a school. Event staff offered us moose stew, and then we bedded down on gym mats.
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DELTA JUNCTION TO FAIRBANKS TO HEALY
On the road by around 4:30 am in daylight, an uneventful trek to Fairbanks. This was the first actual navigating we had to do of the ride so far. The checkpoint was at the Safeway, the only supermarket we passed on the route.
On the return from Fairbanks, we got some fabulous mountain range views, plus summer flowering vegetation.
Our only dirt/gravel miles of the ride were a construction zone coming into Healy. Some riders, like Spencer Klaassen, had tires big enough to float comfortably over the soft earth, but everyone did ok.
Next overnight was at a church in Healy, tubs of hearty food provided by the volunteers, and a scattering of places to sleep. And brisk cold-water showering.
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HEALY TO TALKEETNA
These roads had more traffic in places, but still beautiful. We actually saw Denali, which is usually shrouded in clouds.
We also saw more strange sights of Alaska, including the Igloo City Hotel. (There were actually 3-4 of these built but all are now defunct.)
Igloo City Hotel, Cantwell AK
courtesy Wikimedia Commons
I haven't found my photo of this.
Talkeetna is out a spur from Hwy. 4, nice rolling terrain. You can take helicopter and fixed-wing sightseeing tours from here to Denali and other spots. I believe Pat had taken a Denali tour the day before.
We arrived early evening, about 7:30 pm. Lodging was in the only actual inn of the trip, with beds. They also had a restaurant, with tables, tablecloths, and food from a limited menu. We had been looking forward the whole ride to sleeping in a bed, but it turns out there weren't enough bed spots for all the riders. Still, we had hot showers and a meal.
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TALKEETNA TO ANCHORAGE
The final day was just a pleasant trip into the finish. We were ferried across a construction zone, but otherwise no issues.
Julie Gazmararian
Kevin had been keeping an eye on bikepath construction coming into Anchorage, but they had finished things up, and we glided into the finish hotel on a brand new bike path.
At finish with Lois Springsteen
At finish with Julie Gazmarian
Dan and Pam
At finish with Deb Banks and Drew Carlson
At finish with Ron Himschoot, Julie, Carl, and Tim
BWR has turned out to be one of my favorite 1200k's.
A hearty thanks to Kevin Turinsky and Alaska Randonneurs for a fantastic ride. Kevin and his volunteers really cared about the riders, and were great to deal with. He also managed to engineer perfect weather. At the airport, we asked Deb Banks if she might come back for another BWR, and she said no, who could ever expect a repeat of such great conditions?
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UNSUPPORTED?
A few thoughts about the proposed unsupported 1199k event ...
- We didn't need much support between overnight locations. But on the way to Delta Junction, that was in large part because Kevin made arrangements with the roadhouses, some of which may no longer be in operation. As mentioned, I only recall one convenience store on this 270-mile stretch.
- Our overnights in Delta Junction and Healy were at a school and a church, respectively, but these towns do have restaurants and lodging. Talkeetna has various lodging possibilities.
- In terms of stores and restaurants along the route, while the days are long at this time of year, that doesn't mean that establishments will be open when you arrive or transit.
- Drop bag service could be another reason for personal / shared support.
- We thought carefully about what start time would work so that we would be sleeping during those few dark hours (and circadian low) in Delta Junction, and on down the line. Starting just before midnight worked great for us. With a 4:00 am start, riders should do their own calculations, which may mean having personal support at some checkpoints they transit at night (when things are closed).
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